“Someone pinch me I must be dreaming”
Imagine the prettiest shade of aqua marine water, palm trees and pale white sand; that is precisely what the beaches on Malapascua Island look like. It’s like a post card… only real! This is what I imagine when the word paradise comes to mind. We have been searching for the perfect tropical paradise for a long time, and we have been fortunate enough to have seen a few beaches around the world… but nothing I have ever seen can compare to the beach here. I read that this small island is like a “mini Boracay”, but honestly it is so much better. There are no rowdy package tourists or big resort hotels, electricity is on generator and most accommodation only offer it in the evening until morning. Our experience was so much more than a beautiful beach; it was also the amazing people that we met during our stay. The island is quite small and it’s possible to walk the entire island in only a few hours. If you snorkel just a few metres from the shore, the aquatic life is plentiful and interesting to explore. You really get the feeling of isolation, and it’s easy to sit back and enjoy every moment. Our little “rustic” hut is located right on the beach, we literally open our front door and there it is… our own personal paradise. Currently Malapascua is flying right under the tourist radar, and to me that is part of its charm. I hope in the future it stays that way and the glitz and tackiness of big chain hotels and package deals doesn’t ever overrun the island. This island is a place that we will never forget and hopefully the images can remain alive and vivid in our minds forever.
We had 2 weeks scheduled in the Philippines and of course we had no clue what we wanted to do. We only knew that we wanted to see Boracay and one other island/area, but we didn’t know which one or where exactly. One day I was reading the Philippines section of my South-East Asia guide book and I came upon a small insert about Malapascua Island. Not very much was said, and it was vague to say the least. It only mentioned that there was great diving and the beach was beautiful. Andrew and I thought “why not?, let’s check it out” We researched the location and discovered to get here we would need to take a short flight to Cebu from the airport near Boracay, then a four hour bus to a short boat ride. This sounded easy enough so we decided to make it a plan, but of course it didn’t go quite that smoothly. After leaving our place in Boracay we took a short boat ride to the mainland of Caticlan then found a minibus to take us to the airport located 2 ½ hours away. We took an hour flight to Cebu on yet another prop plane. This time it wasn’t as scary, it was slightly bigger and held approx 70+ passengers and even had a flight attendant. After landing in Cebu we took a taxi to the local bus terminal and then caught a local bus to Maya (the town where the ferry boat leaves for Malapascua on the northern tip of Cebu) The local bus was hilarious… people were smoking out the windows and the entire four hour ride they blared cheesy rock ballads then electronic music like a nightclub on wheels. The trip felt like we were off-roading in a vehicle that had no shocks. Thankfully we arrived safe and sound with only a little butt pain. It was definitely an experience, and quite the contrast from the luxurious buses in South America. A little after 8pm we arrived at the port in Maya, out of the darkness appeared two guys on motorbikes/scooters who informed us that the last boat to Malapascua left at 5pm. They told us that there was a hotel 2 km away, and for a small fee they could take us there. After a little price negotiation we decide it was our best option. I was extremely hesitant about riding on a motorbike as it has been approx. one year since the unfortunate motorbike incident in Thailand. To clarify both Andrew and I fell off a scooter and almost slid down a cliff. I had sworn to never get on anything motorized with two wheels again. But in this situation there was no other way… the town was tiny, no taxis and hardly any lights, so walking was out of the question. The guys assured us that it was no problem to ride with our big backpack and two small daypacks. I stressed to my driver that I was scared and that it was important to go very slow, thankfully he was very accommodating and did exactly as asked. We ended up staying the night there and early in the morning our 2 motorbike guys showed up right on time to drive us to the port. After some negotiations with the boat people we were on our way to paradise.
Finding accommodation on the island was pretty easy; we met a local boy named Varry on the boat that offered to help us find somewhere that was cheap. When we got off the boat we met two other local boys named Joseph and Raymond that sell boat tours around the island they also offered to help us find cheap accommodation. The way it works on this island is that if the vendors/canvassers bring you to the hotel which gives them 50 PHP (which is the equivalent of $1.10 CAD) for a commission. We told them our price range and we all went walking down the beach on a mission to find the cheapest accommodation possible. Thankfully one of the last places that we tried fit all of our requirements and had the bonus of having the most incredible view plus included an amazing daily breakfast.
Snorkel Boat tour:
Since meeting the two local boys, Joseph and Raymond, we decided to book our tour through them. We picked a three hour trip with three different snorkeling sights. Since we have many more beaches in our future during this trip Andrew and I wanted to buy our own mask and snorkel and since this is a diving island there are plenty of diving shops to choose from. We ended up buying a great mask and snorkel for only a fraction of the at-home cost.
The day of the excursion was yet another amazing day the weather was sunny and the water was clear. Our brand new snorkel gear did not disappoint, it was amazing to have your own equipment and not have to worry about using an unsterilized snorkel. We were fortunate to see plenty of colourful fish, beautiful colourful coral and tons of different star fish and urchins. At our 2nd site there was a Japanese warship wreck sunk by the Americans in WWII. The day was turning out to be absolutely perfect… until, Andrew and I swam leisurely to an area to check out some coral formation. Suddenly I felt an intense stinging sensation on my arm. I screamed and saw a long clear tentacle wrapped on my wrist. Andrew luckily was beside me and helped me get it off while saying “I think it’s just a fishing line!” The burning feeling in my arm meant one thing… stung by a jellyfish. After boarding the boat, it started to swell up in patches from the armpit to my hand. If you have been stung by a jelly fish then you know… it really, really hurts! Just my kind of luck… after the South American bee sting on the eyelid and the amoebas in my belly it’s not surprising that I was the only one that got stung. After a little convincing I decided to give snorkeling another try and headed back into the water. All and all the tour was great… and even the jellyfish incident couldn’t ruin the day!
Night out at the Disco:
Our new friend Varry, whom we discovered to be only 17 years old, invited us to go to the disco with him at Mabuhay bar (a hotel near our hut). We were told that the “happening” nights to go there was Thursdays, so we decided to go and check it out. That particular night the sky was really clear and the stars were very bright. The dance floor was on the beach with a disco ball in the middle right under the stars. There were a few foreigners there and most were young locals. Although it was pretty hot outside, we danced all night long. Varry introduced us to his friends and family and we had an amazing night.
BBQ in honour of “us” and Friday night Fiesta:
Our friends, Joseph and Raymond, who were the two guys that sold us the snorkel excursion decided to throw a farewell BBQ for Andrew and I on our last night on the island. Of course we invited our young friend Varry and also a British girl named Rachel that we had met from Boracay and they invited a few of their friends. The plan was to eat dinner at Joseph’s house then take a motorbike to the other side of the island to the fiesta. This particular fiesta only happens once per year and Andrew and I were fortunate enough to be on the island during that time. Joseph’s house was deep in the village, and he lived in a typical Filipino style house. It was big and simple with a very high ceiling, the walls were bamboo and it had no electricity. He had three small children and they all slept on the floor since the house contained no furniture. Our accommodating hosts cooked our food on a tiny grill just outside the house over hot coals; two fish, a big pot of rice and chicken. They served us on plates and spoons, which were brought out especially for us; we were told they usually eat from the centre of one plate with their hands. All the food tasted so good and fresh, but it was especially tasty since it was grilled over a coal bbq. After eating an amazing meal we all chatted while drinking a local beer called Gold Eagle, Filipino style, meaning we had three glasses and after one person finishes their cup they pass it to the next person to fill up and drink. Joseph’s cousin named Robin said he would drive Andrew and I to the fiesta (on the other side of the island) as Joseph had asked him because he owns a powerful motorbike and is a very experienced driver. Varry and Rachel took a motor taxi and Joseph and the gang took their own bikes or waited for Robin to go back and pick them up. Thankfully Robin was pre-warned about my dislike for motorbikes and rode as slow as possible. The poor motorbike was weighed down with both Andrew and I squished on the back. I prayed that the bike wouldn’t breakdown during the dark unpaved winding paths that lead to the other side of the island. We were told that three people per bike was no problem… but we are not Filipino’s, meaning we are quite a bit heavier than what they are use to. As the motorbike whined and grinded going up and down the hills our expert driver successfully avoided bump after bump including tree stumps and etc. Thankfully Robin has ridden that path numerous times and actually is a great driver. Like the disco a night earlier, the fiesta was outside… it was similar to an outdoor large basketball court… meaning concrete floor and waist high walls around the dance floor. There were tables that you could purchase that came with six huge beers and the ability to sit. We decided that we would buy a table instead of running out of the disco to buy drinks. We soon discovered after our beers were consumed that Tanduay (the local rum) could be bought in pitchers and was tasty and cheap (two mickie’s w. mix for 96 PHP/$2 CND). I’m not going to mention how much alcohol and beer we consumed as a group that night but let’s just say it was “a lot!” The disco consisted of mostly locals of all ages and literally a handful of awkward looking foreigners. With Tanduay flowing through our bodies we danced the night away. Everyone was so nice to us and we had an amazing night out… the hospitality that we experienced was priceless and we will remember it forever.
Leaving Malapascua Island:
Bright and early we got up to pack our bags and get ready to leave. Our friend Varry showed up right on time to help us carry our bags to the boat. Even at such an early hour our other friends showed up to say goodbye to us too. As no one has email address’ we couldn’t exchange contact information, so yet again Andrew and I said goodbye to people, fully aware that our paths will most likely never cross again. It’s sometimes so hard to leave places that we have such great experiences.
I sincerely hope that we will be able to go back to the island again someday.
Click here to open album in Picasa
~Nicola
Imagine the prettiest shade of aqua marine water, palm trees and pale white sand; that is precisely what the beaches on Malapascua Island look like. It’s like a post card… only real! This is what I imagine when the word paradise comes to mind. We have been searching for the perfect tropical paradise for a long time, and we have been fortunate enough to have seen a few beaches around the world… but nothing I have ever seen can compare to the beach here. I read that this small island is like a “mini Boracay”, but honestly it is so much better. There are no rowdy package tourists or big resort hotels, electricity is on generator and most accommodation only offer it in the evening until morning. Our experience was so much more than a beautiful beach; it was also the amazing people that we met during our stay. The island is quite small and it’s possible to walk the entire island in only a few hours. If you snorkel just a few metres from the shore, the aquatic life is plentiful and interesting to explore. You really get the feeling of isolation, and it’s easy to sit back and enjoy every moment. Our little “rustic” hut is located right on the beach, we literally open our front door and there it is… our own personal paradise. Currently Malapascua is flying right under the tourist radar, and to me that is part of its charm. I hope in the future it stays that way and the glitz and tackiness of big chain hotels and package deals doesn’t ever overrun the island. This island is a place that we will never forget and hopefully the images can remain alive and vivid in our minds forever.
We had 2 weeks scheduled in the Philippines and of course we had no clue what we wanted to do. We only knew that we wanted to see Boracay and one other island/area, but we didn’t know which one or where exactly. One day I was reading the Philippines section of my South-East Asia guide book and I came upon a small insert about Malapascua Island. Not very much was said, and it was vague to say the least. It only mentioned that there was great diving and the beach was beautiful. Andrew and I thought “why not?, let’s check it out” We researched the location and discovered to get here we would need to take a short flight to Cebu from the airport near Boracay, then a four hour bus to a short boat ride. This sounded easy enough so we decided to make it a plan, but of course it didn’t go quite that smoothly. After leaving our place in Boracay we took a short boat ride to the mainland of Caticlan then found a minibus to take us to the airport located 2 ½ hours away. We took an hour flight to Cebu on yet another prop plane. This time it wasn’t as scary, it was slightly bigger and held approx 70+ passengers and even had a flight attendant. After landing in Cebu we took a taxi to the local bus terminal and then caught a local bus to Maya (the town where the ferry boat leaves for Malapascua on the northern tip of Cebu) The local bus was hilarious… people were smoking out the windows and the entire four hour ride they blared cheesy rock ballads then electronic music like a nightclub on wheels. The trip felt like we were off-roading in a vehicle that had no shocks. Thankfully we arrived safe and sound with only a little butt pain. It was definitely an experience, and quite the contrast from the luxurious buses in South America. A little after 8pm we arrived at the port in Maya, out of the darkness appeared two guys on motorbikes/scooters who informed us that the last boat to Malapascua left at 5pm. They told us that there was a hotel 2 km away, and for a small fee they could take us there. After a little price negotiation we decide it was our best option. I was extremely hesitant about riding on a motorbike as it has been approx. one year since the unfortunate motorbike incident in Thailand. To clarify both Andrew and I fell off a scooter and almost slid down a cliff. I had sworn to never get on anything motorized with two wheels again. But in this situation there was no other way… the town was tiny, no taxis and hardly any lights, so walking was out of the question. The guys assured us that it was no problem to ride with our big backpack and two small daypacks. I stressed to my driver that I was scared and that it was important to go very slow, thankfully he was very accommodating and did exactly as asked. We ended up staying the night there and early in the morning our 2 motorbike guys showed up right on time to drive us to the port. After some negotiations with the boat people we were on our way to paradise.
Finding accommodation on the island was pretty easy; we met a local boy named Varry on the boat that offered to help us find somewhere that was cheap. When we got off the boat we met two other local boys named Joseph and Raymond that sell boat tours around the island they also offered to help us find cheap accommodation. The way it works on this island is that if the vendors/canvassers bring you to the hotel which gives them 50 PHP (which is the equivalent of $1.10 CAD) for a commission. We told them our price range and we all went walking down the beach on a mission to find the cheapest accommodation possible. Thankfully one of the last places that we tried fit all of our requirements and had the bonus of having the most incredible view plus included an amazing daily breakfast.
Snorkel Boat tour:
Since meeting the two local boys, Joseph and Raymond, we decided to book our tour through them. We picked a three hour trip with three different snorkeling sights. Since we have many more beaches in our future during this trip Andrew and I wanted to buy our own mask and snorkel and since this is a diving island there are plenty of diving shops to choose from. We ended up buying a great mask and snorkel for only a fraction of the at-home cost.
The day of the excursion was yet another amazing day the weather was sunny and the water was clear. Our brand new snorkel gear did not disappoint, it was amazing to have your own equipment and not have to worry about using an unsterilized snorkel. We were fortunate to see plenty of colourful fish, beautiful colourful coral and tons of different star fish and urchins. At our 2nd site there was a Japanese warship wreck sunk by the Americans in WWII. The day was turning out to be absolutely perfect… until, Andrew and I swam leisurely to an area to check out some coral formation. Suddenly I felt an intense stinging sensation on my arm. I screamed and saw a long clear tentacle wrapped on my wrist. Andrew luckily was beside me and helped me get it off while saying “I think it’s just a fishing line!” The burning feeling in my arm meant one thing… stung by a jellyfish. After boarding the boat, it started to swell up in patches from the armpit to my hand. If you have been stung by a jelly fish then you know… it really, really hurts! Just my kind of luck… after the South American bee sting on the eyelid and the amoebas in my belly it’s not surprising that I was the only one that got stung. After a little convincing I decided to give snorkeling another try and headed back into the water. All and all the tour was great… and even the jellyfish incident couldn’t ruin the day!
Night out at the Disco:
Our new friend Varry, whom we discovered to be only 17 years old, invited us to go to the disco with him at Mabuhay bar (a hotel near our hut). We were told that the “happening” nights to go there was Thursdays, so we decided to go and check it out. That particular night the sky was really clear and the stars were very bright. The dance floor was on the beach with a disco ball in the middle right under the stars. There were a few foreigners there and most were young locals. Although it was pretty hot outside, we danced all night long. Varry introduced us to his friends and family and we had an amazing night.
BBQ in honour of “us” and Friday night Fiesta:
Our friends, Joseph and Raymond, who were the two guys that sold us the snorkel excursion decided to throw a farewell BBQ for Andrew and I on our last night on the island. Of course we invited our young friend Varry and also a British girl named Rachel that we had met from Boracay and they invited a few of their friends. The plan was to eat dinner at Joseph’s house then take a motorbike to the other side of the island to the fiesta. This particular fiesta only happens once per year and Andrew and I were fortunate enough to be on the island during that time. Joseph’s house was deep in the village, and he lived in a typical Filipino style house. It was big and simple with a very high ceiling, the walls were bamboo and it had no electricity. He had three small children and they all slept on the floor since the house contained no furniture. Our accommodating hosts cooked our food on a tiny grill just outside the house over hot coals; two fish, a big pot of rice and chicken. They served us on plates and spoons, which were brought out especially for us; we were told they usually eat from the centre of one plate with their hands. All the food tasted so good and fresh, but it was especially tasty since it was grilled over a coal bbq. After eating an amazing meal we all chatted while drinking a local beer called Gold Eagle, Filipino style, meaning we had three glasses and after one person finishes their cup they pass it to the next person to fill up and drink. Joseph’s cousin named Robin said he would drive Andrew and I to the fiesta (on the other side of the island) as Joseph had asked him because he owns a powerful motorbike and is a very experienced driver. Varry and Rachel took a motor taxi and Joseph and the gang took their own bikes or waited for Robin to go back and pick them up. Thankfully Robin was pre-warned about my dislike for motorbikes and rode as slow as possible. The poor motorbike was weighed down with both Andrew and I squished on the back. I prayed that the bike wouldn’t breakdown during the dark unpaved winding paths that lead to the other side of the island. We were told that three people per bike was no problem… but we are not Filipino’s, meaning we are quite a bit heavier than what they are use to. As the motorbike whined and grinded going up and down the hills our expert driver successfully avoided bump after bump including tree stumps and etc. Thankfully Robin has ridden that path numerous times and actually is a great driver. Like the disco a night earlier, the fiesta was outside… it was similar to an outdoor large basketball court… meaning concrete floor and waist high walls around the dance floor. There were tables that you could purchase that came with six huge beers and the ability to sit. We decided that we would buy a table instead of running out of the disco to buy drinks. We soon discovered after our beers were consumed that Tanduay (the local rum) could be bought in pitchers and was tasty and cheap (two mickie’s w. mix for 96 PHP/$2 CND). I’m not going to mention how much alcohol and beer we consumed as a group that night but let’s just say it was “a lot!” The disco consisted of mostly locals of all ages and literally a handful of awkward looking foreigners. With Tanduay flowing through our bodies we danced the night away. Everyone was so nice to us and we had an amazing night out… the hospitality that we experienced was priceless and we will remember it forever.
Leaving Malapascua Island:
Bright and early we got up to pack our bags and get ready to leave. Our friend Varry showed up right on time to help us carry our bags to the boat. Even at such an early hour our other friends showed up to say goodbye to us too. As no one has email address’ we couldn’t exchange contact information, so yet again Andrew and I said goodbye to people, fully aware that our paths will most likely never cross again. It’s sometimes so hard to leave places that we have such great experiences.
I sincerely hope that we will be able to go back to the island again someday.
Click here to open album in Picasa
 |
| Malapascua, Philippines |
~Nicola
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